Mulligan's

Dublin. One of my favorite pubs in Dublin. Established originally as an unlicensed "shebeen" (drinking den), it became a legally licensed premises in 1782 under the Mulligan family. The last of the family passed away in the 1920s, and ownership transitioned in 1932 to the head barman, Michael "Mick" Smyth. It eventually passed down to his nephews, Con and Tommy Cusack. Today the tavern continues to be operated by the third generation of the Cusack family.

The pub is a cornerstone of Dublin's literary history. James Joyce was a frequent patron and famously immortalized the bar in his Dubliners short story "Counterparts" as a venue for a late night arm wrestling match. Because it was located right across the street from the stage door of the historic, now demolished Theatre Royal, it became the ultimate after show hangout for performers. The walls remain decorated with authentic 19th century playbills and photographs, including an autographed portrait of Judy Garland, who drank here while performing in Dublin.

Throughout the 20th century Mulligan's served as an unofficial "sub-office" for reporters, as it sat next door to the headquarters of the Irish Press newspaper, and also hosted writers front the Irish Times. In the late 1940s a young John F. Kennedy visited the pub while working as a journalist touring Europe, sitting at Joyce s favorite spot at the bar.

Several rooms surround the two sided bar, with lots of dark wood and red floors and ceilings. 70 year old bartender Christy Hynes was a wealth of information, including telling me a tale of seeing the ghost of an elf at the end of the bar when closing one night! He also told me that the ashes of one of the former owners and two former bartenders are in the clock at the back of the bar. A really fascinating pub. It's north of the river away from the central tourist area, but well worth the trek.