Cleary's

Dublin. Another of my favorite pubs in Dublin, recommended to me by the previously mentioned Christy from Mulligan's. Established in 1846 under the name The Signal House. Because it sits directly underneath a railway bridge that blocks out much of the sunlight, the early proprietors we're not charged for electricity - the railway paid for it. The Cleary family took over management of the pub in the early 1900s. Jim Cleary, who was a notable athlete, winning two All-Ireland medals, was close friends with Republican leaders. As a result, Cleary's became a high stake, discreet meeting place for Irish Republicans. Notable historical figures like Michael Collins and Harry Boland used the long, narrow bar to plan operations, coordinate activities ahead of the 1916 Easter Rising, and gather intelligence on British troop movements. The amount of Republican memorabilia adorning the walls is astounding, including one of three surviving original copies of the 1916 Proclamation, photos of the "12 Apostles" who were killed, and of course photos and documents related to Michael Collins. Bartender John Kennedy (he was very proud to have the same name as "the US's greatest president!", took the time to take me on a tour of the pub, pointing out so much fascinating information. I took a long time walking around checking out everything - two pints of Guinness worth of information!

The pub has gone mostly unaltered for a century, and features the original mahogany bar, wooden partitions with etched glass windows, wood strikers, ornate ceilings, and timber floors. James Joyce included the pub under its original name in his novel Ulysses, and it has been used in the films "Michael Collins", "The Commitments", and "Terms of Trial".

Another pub north of the central tourist zone, I HIGHLY recommend making this pilgrimage!